Garden Tips

By Steve Valentino

Orchids are amongst the largest flowering plant families in the world. They are rare and exotic, steeped in myth and romance, and have been the symbols of pure, undying love. There are about 17000 original species of them and many more manmade hybrids.

They are of two types. One type grows on the ground, and the other, known as "epiphytes", grows on tree trunks, branches, and rocky surfaces. Thousands of new hybrids have been created that enhance the natural colors and scents of these flowers. People are so allured by the beauty of these natural wonders that they have ended up dedicating their entire lives to nurturing them. Many grow them indoors, many have greenhouses for them, and some even go out into the wild to help conserve the orchids on the endangered species lists. The epiphytes are the most cultivated orchids and require stringent prerequisites in regards to the light, humidity, and temperature.

Orchids are not very sturdy plants and their cultivation requires a constant tending and gardening. At times, they can be grown in artificially created environments with the help of semi-hydroponic mediums. These allow the orchids roots to function normally and allow the plant to be grown indoors within pots or water trays. Each type of orchid requires distinct temperatures, some prefer cooler temperatures and others flourish in temperate or tropical environments. Usually, the orchid is allowed to reach a certain age and size on the branches of a tree; it is then transplanted to a pot with a semi-hydroponic culture. Nearly all species of orchids can be grown in this way. Future flowering of the plants can be prevented by denying the required warmth.

The orchids are spoiled due to the most common fault of over watering. Hence, maintaining a good drainage system of the pots and plant beds is essential. The watering rate for healthy growing orchids should be once a week allowing ample time for the potting mixture to dry out completely between irrigation intervals.

Orchids provides detailed information on Orchids, Orchids for Sale, Care of Orchids, Growing Orchids and more. Orchids is affiliated with Hibiscus Plant.
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By Tony Foxley

Planting is probably the most important part in establishing your pool and it is often the most neglected. A pool cannot be successful without a full complement of aquatic plants, an under planted pool will usually remain green or cloudy unless you invest in a biological filtration with an ultra violet clarifier, without which, makes it difficult to see your fish except when they are near to the surface.

Pools should be planted when the plants are in their growing season, which is normally from late March to the end of September. If the pool has been filled with tap water then allow this to stand for a few days to allow Chlorine and other chemicals to disperse. It is important that the aquatic plants be given at least three weeks to establish before introducing any fish.

Water plants should be planted in open sided baskets; except for water lily tubs, which are generally solid. The baskets should first be lined with basket liners to prevent soil erosion then filled to within 1" of the rim with Stapeley's own aquatic soil, which has at least 60% clay content. The intended plant should be trimmed if necessary, a hole is made in the middle of the soil with your hand and the plant placed in the soil so that the top of the soil of the plant is the same level as in the basket, firm the soil around the plant and push a couple of plant food tablets deep into the soil. Trim the excess basket liner then top of the soil with well washed aquatic gravel, this will help to prevent the fish from digging into the soil.

To help with selecting which basket to purchase, refer to this chart below.

• Mini round-1 small marginal or 5 bunches of oxygenators
• Mini square- 1 small marginal or 5 bunches of oxygenators
• Medium round- 1 marginal, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
• Small square- 1 marginals, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
• Medium square- 1 or 2 marginals, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
• Large square- 1 or 2 marginals, 15 bunches of oxygenators or 1 medium water lily
• Contour- 1-3 marginals or 15 bunches of oxygenators
• Lily tub- 1-3 larger marginals, 20 bunches of oxygenators or 1 medium or vigorous water lily
• Jumbo lily tub- 50-100 bunches of oxygenators or 1 vigorous water lily

The basket/tub should be placed into the pool in accordance to the type of plant it is (further details will be given later on). Avoid placing any plant basket too near moving water as the soil could be eroded and avoid putting lilies where fountains can splash them. Marginal plants look better in bold groups rather than individually, with the taller ones near the back of the pool and the lower growing ones near to the front.

It is difficult to give exact numbers of plants required for your pool, however, a guide to plant numbers can be found at the appropriate plant section.

Aquatic plants are divided into five main categories, these are: -

Oxygenating plants

Oxygenators are essential for all pools; the water is unlikely to clear until these plants are growing vigorously and in quantity. Without oxygenators, pools turn to a green pea-soup colour, this is caused by millions of microscopic, free floating single cell plants we call algae.

Algae flourish under the influence of sunlight and excess mineral salts present in the water. In time, oxygenators should compete for light and nutrients and literally starve the algae to death producing clear water. Apart from clearing the pool, oxygenators provide a supplementary food source for fish; they also provide a spawning medium and hiding place for fish, amphibians and insects. Oxygenators are sold either already potted up or as unrooted cuttings, which should be planted up and be placed, eventually, at the bottom of the pool.


Oxygenators- allow 5 bunches per 1 sq. metre of water surface

Water Lilies

These are without doubt the queens of the pool; these most beautiful of plants come in five colours, white, red, pink, yellow and changeable/copper. They can flower from June to October with often, a constant succession of blooms, each lasting for 3-5 days and some providing a delicate perfume.

Whilst most water lilies are cultivated for their beautiful flowers, the leaves of some varieties are also very pretty, with their striking tiger stripes or delicate mottling, water lily leaves also provide shade for fish and cut down the amount of sunlight reaching the water surface helping to control algae growth. Varieties vary in size from the dwarf 'Pygmaea Helvola' that has leaves often the size of a fifty pence piece and can grow in 6" of water, to the giant 'Gladstoneana' with its 18" diameter leaves; this variety can eventually live in 1.2 metres of water.

Care must be taken when selecting your water lily as the wrong choice could lead to the plant either being too big or too small for the pool, the ideal coverage rate for a water lily is approx 65-75% of the water surface; the coverage rates for each size of water lily is shown below. As an example, I have a pool 2 metres wide and 3 metres long (6 sq. metres in total), so I need a lily which will cover approx 65-75% of this amount of surface, (approx 4 sq, metres) so I need 1x medium/vigorous (m/v) water lily or 2 x small/medium (s/m) ones

• Water lilies- miniature (T)- allow 1 plant per 1 sq. metre of water surface
• Water lilies- small- allow (S) 1 plant per 1.5 sq. metres of water surface
• Water lilies-small-medium (S/M)- allow 1 plant per 2 sq. metres surface
• Water lilies-Medium (M)- allow 1 plant per 3 sq. metres of water surface
• Water lilies- medium/vigorous (M/V) allow I plant per 4 sq. metres of water surface
• Water lilies- Vigorous (V) allow 1 plant per 5 sq. metres of water surface
The depth water lilies should be planted will depend on the variety; all planting depths are measured from the water surface to the crown of the plant or soil level; - Initial depth is the recommended planting depth for a new or young plant. Optimum depth is the recommended long term planting depth, which would allow for optimum growth under 'typical' conditions.

Maximum depth specifies the recommended maximum depth, which a mature lily will survive at, but may only apply when assuming clear water and full sun.

Varieties
Miniature (T) Initial Depth 8cm - Opt Depth 16cm - Max depth 24cmSmall (S) Initial Depth 10cm - Opt Depth 20cm - Max depth 30cmSmall/medium S/M) Initial Depth 12cm - Opt Depth 24cm - Max depth 36cmMedium (M) Initial Depth 15cm - Opt Depth 30cm - Max depth45cmMedium/vigorous (M/V) Initial Depth 20cm - Opt Depth 40cm - Max depth 70cmVigorous (V) Initial Depth 25cm - Opt Depth 50cm - Max depth 90cm

Ideal water lilies for small pools
- 2 sq. metres
- Caroliniana Nivea
- Laydekeri Lilacea (Pink)
- Froebelii (Red)
- Odorata Sulphurea (Yellow)

Ideal water lilies for medium sized pools
- 5 sq metres
- Marliacea Albida (white)
- William falconer (Red)
- Marliacea Chromatella (Yellow)
- Gladstoniana (White)

Ideal water lilies for large pools
- 8 sq metres +
- Colossea (Pink)
- Colonel A. J. Welsh (Yellow)
- Alba (White)

Marginal plants
These plants, in most cases will grow, both in damp soil and in waterlogged conditions with varying depths of water over the planting soil. In smaller pools there are a number of marginals that will help to provide some surface coverage and their roots will absorb waste nutrients. Marginals, however, are essentially decorative, with plants such as Iris and reeds providing a formal effect or symmetry in the pool. Alternately a more natural or informal effect can be produced using a mixture of vertical and clump forming plants to soften the edges between the pool and the rest of the garden. A pool without marginals may look flat and lifeless, marginal plants break up the flatness and provide a background to your water lilies.

When selecting marginals, like any other plant, pay attention to the any flowering period, flower colour, as well as the plant shape, texture, colour or height. Unless you are planting a formal pool, try to avoid planting marginals in even spaces and lines like soldiers, instead place different plants side by side for contrast or clumps of the same plant to form impressive displays, and have uneven gaps between others.

Like water lilies, most marginals appreciate full sun and occasional feeding, also when first planting marginals it is best to lower them slowly to their ideal depth (any planting depths given in our literature or on the web is measured from the top of the planting soil to the top of the pond). Marginals- allow 1-2 plants per metre of shelf

Ideal marginal plants for the smaller pool.
• Caltha Palustris plena (Double marsh marigold)
• Calla palustris (Bog arum)
• Eriophorum angustifolium (Cotton grass)
• Geum rivale (Water avens)
• Iris setosa (Dwarf iris)
• Menyanthes trifoliata (Bog bean)
• Sparganium erectum (Burr-reed)
• Typha minima (Dwarf reedmace)

Ideal marginal plants for medium pools
• Acorus calamus (Sweet scented rush)
• Caltha Palustris (Marsh marigold)
• Alisma plantago (water plantain)
• Houttuynia cordata variegata (Chameleon plant)
• Iris ensata (Japanese water iris)• Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen victoria'
• Lysichiton camchatcensis (Japanese skunk cabbage)
• Persicaria amphibia (Amphibious bistort)
• Sagittaria japonica (Japanese arrowhead)

Ideal marginal plants for larger pools
• Caltha palustris var. palustris (Giant Marsh Marigold)
• Carex pendula (Drooping sedge)
• Cyperus longus (Sweet galingale)
• Iris pseudacorus (Yellow flag Iris)
• Pontederia cordata (Water pickerel)
• Ranunculus lingua 'Grandiflorus' (Greater spearwort)
• Schoenoplectus (Scirpus) tab. 'Albescens' (Bulrush)
• Schoenoplectus (Scirpus) tab. 'Zebrinus' (Zebra rush)
• Typha angustifolia (Lesser reedmace)
• Typha Latifolia (Greater reedmace)
• Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough' (Arum lily)

Buying Marginals
Marginals can now be purchased in 9cm pots, 1 litre baskets, 2 litre baskets, 3 litre baskets and occasionally as specimens in lily tubs, the smaller the pot size, the younger the plant, young plants will need to be given time to become a decent size and will eventually catch up with the older plants. 9cm plants need to be taken out of their pots and planted into medium sized planting baskets using Stapeley's own planting compost which has been specially formulated for aquatic plants. 1 and 2 litre plants are ok for the first year then will need to be planted as per 9cm plants. Although it is difficult to accurately recommend how many marginals to use, we generally say between 1 and 2 per 1 metre of shelf depending on the overall effect desired.

Deep Marginal Plants
This category of plants are essentially the same as water lilies in as much that they are planted some way below the surface and generally have leaves on or above the surface, however, they are usually mentioned separately. Deep-water marginals are planted in medium to large planting baskets in Stapeley's own planting compost and lowered slowly over a few weeks to their ideal depth.

Recommended varieties (Deep marginals)
• Aponogeton Distachyos (Water hawthorn)
• Nuphar lutea (Brandy bottle lily)
• Nymphoides peltata 'Bennettii' (Water fringe)
• Orontium aquaticum (Golden club)

Floating plants
Floating plants can be split into two basic groups; the first group contains the hardy plants, which are beneficial in small to medium pools, as they will quickley provide the valuable cover required to reduce algae growth plus their roots utilise waste nutrients in the water. Some of these plants could eventually cover the whole pool but all you have to do is occasionally remove any excess growth with a fish net. Lemna (Duckweed) and Azolla (Fairy moss) should be avoided in large pools, as their management will be more difficult.

Typical hardy floating plants• Azolla filliculoides (Fairy moss)• Hydrocharis morsus ranae (Frog-bit) not normally available until early May.• Lemna minor (Common duckweed)• Lemna trisulca (Ivy leafed duckweed)• Straitiotes aloides (Water soldier/cactus)

The second group contains the tender, tropical floating plants, which look very attractive in the summer months, but which usually don't spread enough to provide much cover. These plants should be treated as annuals as they will die off in the first frost, it is very difficult and not economical to try and keep them alive over winter. Introduce as many plants as you choose from this group. Water hyacinth and Water lettuce are excellent at removing excessive nutrients, so much so that they are used in huge filtration plants in certain parts of the world, they are also good at removing heavy metals from drinking water.

Typical tender floating plants• Eichhornia crassipes (Water hyacinth) not normally available until end of May• Pistia straitiotes (Water lettuce) not normally available until end of MayFloating plants- allow 1 plant/portion per 1 sq. metre of water surface

Moisture loving/Bog /Poolside plants
Whilst the ground immediately surrounding most pools will be constantly damp in nature, this does not follow in the garden when using a pool liner, if this area dries up during the summer then a polythene liner can be placed 30-60cm under the soil to hold moisture (poke holes in the base to avoid water logging), alternatively, water on a regular basis to avoid drying out. These plants are mostly in 9cm pots but a few are also available in 1-litre pots. Certain varieties such as lobelia cardinalis, Lysimachia nummularia and Zantedeschia aethiopica are very tolerant and are sold as marginals too.

Ideal plants for a small poolside area
• Adiantum pedatum v. subpumilum (Dwarf evergreen fern)
• Asplenium trichomanes (Evergreen fern)
• Lychnis flos-cuculi (Ragged robin)
• Persicaria affine 'Donald lowndes'
• Primula auricula• Primula veris (Native cowslip)
• Primula vulgaris (Native primrose)

Ideal plants for a medium sized poolside area
• Achillea 'Walter funcke• Astilbe
• Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding heart)
• Hosta undulata var. albo-marginata• Iris sibirica 'Snow queen
• Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen victoria'
• Lythrum salicaria (Purple loostrife)

Ideal plants for a large sized poolside area
• Crocosmia 'Lucifer'• Darmera peltata (umbrella plant)
• Dryopteris felix-mas (Male fern)
• Filipendula ulmaria (Meadow sweet)
• Gunnera manicata• Hosta Halycon
• Ligularia dent. 'Desdemona'
• Osmunda regalis (Royal fern)
• Rheum palmatum (Giant rhubarb)

Tony foxley 1/3/2007. For Additional help why don't you email me direct on- tony.foxley@stapeleywg.com or visithttp://www.stapeleywg.com/department/water_gardening_how_to_s/
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By Thomas Henricks

Maintaining Healthy houseplants is not extremely difficult and in fact many houseplants will provide you with big returns on a very small investment. In fact sometimes a little too much care is applied yielding negative results. Plants have developed naturally to survive under inherently poor conditions and sometimes too much of a good thing is in fact not good. Keep it simple but provide the basics.

What Are a Plant's Basic Needs?

Similar to any living thing, a plant needs water, food, environment and occasional grooming. That is basically the program in a nutshell. Learn how to best satisfy these needs for your particular plant and by routinely satisfying those basic needs you should be rewarded with healthy plants.
Potting and soil mix: To permit adequate drainage, it is recommended that you grow houseplants in either clay or plastic pots with drainage holes.

You can place the growing pots inside attractive outer pots but do not let extra water accumulate in the bottom.

Most houseplants do not require frequent transplanting. Transplant when you see the plant being forced out of its container or you see roots showing at the drainage hole. Use houseplant potting mix, and replant into a container that is just a little larger than the roots.

Light: Flowering houseplants and those with colored leaves need more light than green-leafed plants. These houseplants may require supplemental plant lighting supplied by either a specialty grow light or a common fluorescent light.

Water: Over watering is the most common mistake of new gardeners. Wait for the soil to become almost dry, but do not allow the plant to become wilted. Water until the water just begins to appear at the drainage holes. Test for moisture by touch or by using a moisture meter every five days. If it feels dry or meter registers dry, it is time to add water.

When watering your houseplants look at the top and underside of leaves. If you see bugs, try washing them away with water and a mild dish detergent solution. Test the water and soap mixture on a small part of the plant first, to be sure there will be no damage to leaves. If you find that is not successful, you will need to apply a chemical insecticide.

Throw away dead plant matter and discard the soil to prevent diseases spreading to your other houseplants.

Humidity: Place a layer of marbles in bottom of saucers; fill with water and place plant pot on top to capture evaporation. Consider a room humidifier if you notice your house humidity levels are to low for your houseplants.

Temperature: Daytime temperatures of 64 to 73°F (18 to 23°C) and a little cooler at night are ideal. Avoid placing houseplants near heating ducts or drafty areas.

Fertilizing: A great deal of fertilizing is not necessary. Fertilizing of houseplants should be further reduced during slowed winter growth. Begin fertilizing about February with all-purpose fertilizer diluted to half strength. All-purpose fertilizer has nutrient ratios that are balanced or in equal concentrations, e.g. 15-15-15 or 20-20-20.

Trimming
Remove leaves that turn off color or yellow yellow and dead leaves. If more than half the leaf is affected, remove the entire leaf. If only a small portion of the leaf is discolored, trim that portion to the natural shape of the leaf. Use sharp scissors for best results. The leaves of some houseplants may continue to grow at the leaf base. Remove both the flower and the stem.

Remove faded and discoloured flowers.

Pests and Diseases: Healthy houseplants are less susceptible to disease and less than ideal conditions. For the best success, only purchase healthy vibrant plants. Plants purchased at reduced prices are have often deteriorated badly and will require a lot of care to return them to health.

Grooming: Dust plant leaves on a regular basis to keep breathing pores open. Remove dead or dying leaves and flowers. Dust and dirt that collects on plant leaves will act as a filter to the ambient light. A clean plant converts energy from the sun more efficiently for photosynthesis to produce food. Cleaning also keeps leaves free of insects and diseases. When you wipe leaves, you often wipe away unwanted pests as well.

Use a feather duster to remove light dust. Dampen paper towels, cloths or sponges with water to wipe leaf surfaces. Carefully wipe both upper and lower surfaces of the leaf at the same time. Although they provide a nice appearance, leaf shine products tend to inhibit leaf transpiration and are not recommended for good houseplant health.

That basically concludes the practices required to maintain nice healthy plants inside your house. The principles are not difficult to apply. Simply develop a routine and follow it.

For more information about Houseplants please visit http://www.houseplantsngardening.com
For more information about Gardening please visit http://www.plantstarter.com
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By Harry Nack

You are able to make a fountain shine, light up an entire pond from inside, highlighting an attractive statue, or raise the expression of a particularly gorgeous tree.
You can install garden fountain lights inside or outside lighting. You need to know that all should be connected to a GFI for your own protection,

Before you start shopping for garden fountain lights, try out different effects with a strong flashlight or a spotlight on an extension cord. Focus for simplicity and nuance. Do not let yourself get carried away and chance your garden fountain into a amusement park , but keep your eye on elegance.

There are numerous types of in garden fountain lights, and each one produces its own special effect, depending upon how you position it almost all designs demand lights that have dark, subdued cases. Chromium steel or white casings can be obtrusive, particularly during daylight.
Garden fountain lights, either in white or colorations, add drama to a sprayer. A few garden fountain lights also come equip with transparent rolls of various colors. Colorful light, nevertheless, should be used sparingly-it can easily become tacky.

A lot of garden fountain lights have installed timers that let you to automatically turn the lights off and on. You are also able to put in an independent timer in the lighting setup. Timers not only save you the hazel of regularizing the light, they also save on your electricity bill.

How to place your garden fountain lights

The first rule in setting up your fountain lights is to never them shine straight on the water since they'll produce a harsh glare. In-ponds, lights need reasonably clean water to be efficient. Muddy water obstructs too much light and decreases the light's effectiveness substantially. If you've fish in your water garden, allow dark areas where they can back away from the light. Fish need a great deal of crevices for safety. And never brighten the entire pond, particularly all night. If possible, place out-of-water lights to hide their casings and cord underneath a deck, behind a stone, or tucked into the leafage of a shrub. Any type of lighting you prefer, be sensitive to its effect on the neighbors. Do not let the lights beam in their windows.

Installation of Low Power Garden Fountain Lights

Contrary to normal 120-volt lights, installation of low-power landscape lights is a breeze, even for novices. And they are fairly safe because of their low voltage. Numerous low-voltage lighting schemes are sold as kits, complete with instruction manuals.

Installing a low-voltage system begins with installing a transformer, which cuts down the regular home current from one hundred twenty volts to twelve volts. Set up the transformer just about the GFI receptacle closest to the water feature, using the manufacturers directions. Even 12-volt systems should utilize a GFI unit to prevent shocks. Most transformers are plainly mounted next to an electric outlet and plugged into it.

Harry is the creator of Garden Fountain Auctions this is the place where you can get the best deal for you're Garden Fountains he has the latest auctions on his page here.
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By Jonathan Goodman

The best way to describe outdoor canopies would be an overhead hanging protection which provides shade in the open. It can be a tent or a canopy outdoor shed. Apart from giving you protection from the sun, canopies are used for a variety of reasons. There are people who use canopies or party tents for outdoor functions, there are people who use it as a storage utility and there are some who use it only for a drink or two in the afternoon. It is also used to provide shade to the garden, yard, parking lot, pool area etc. Depending on your primary usage and your budget, you can choose from a diverse range of canopies. The most commonly used ones are the tents made of canvas which can be retracted and folded with ease.

Buying a canopy
You can browse through hundreds of canopy designs at retail shops or online stores. The price starts from $150 and goes up to $1000. You need to keep an eye on the canopy fabric though. The fabric needs to be extremely durable and able to withstand the vagaries of nature. People who opt for cheap canopies need to bear in mind that the fabric might simply tear after prolonged usage. Apart from the canopies, the quality of the metal poles used is important. Look for rust proof and powder coated poles.

Types of canopies
There are several popular outdoor canopy designs and the 10' x 20' All-Purpose Canopy w/Extension leads the list. This multi utility canopy can be used as a cover for your car or boat and even be used as a party shed. The configuration of the canopy allows you to extend it beyond normal dimensions. The sidewall extension on the canopy allows you to extend it to an area of 480 square feet. The extensions and connections are extremely easy to install and dismantle as well. When you do not want to use the extension, you simply roll it up. The small 10' x 15' pop up canopy is also an extremely popular design. As the name suggests, these are ideal for outdoor events, a day on the beach etc.

You simply install it, use it, dismantle it and carry it wherever you want to. Its that easy. > A lot of people have now started to use tarps for canopies. Tarps are durable and reliable. But if you really want your canopy to last long, opt for canvas tarps. These have the flexibility of tarps and the durability of canvas.

About The Author: Jonathan Goodman is the owner of Market Merchants an online retailer specializing in home and garden products. My passion for bbq grilling and fireplaces is the core focus of Market Merchants. I am a member of the Hearth Patio Barbeque Association (HPBA), the National BBQ group (NBBQ), and the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS). We sell these products because we love them and are passionate about consumer living needs. So whether its furniture and decor, home improvement, kitchen and dining, or outdoor living Market Merchants brings a dedicated commitment to the customer and a passion for high quality products.

Visit the Market Merchants website: http://marketmerchants.comhttp://marketmerchants.com/content/canopies.htm
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By Susan Slobac

Indoor gardening makes a great hobby, especially during the gloomy and cold winter months, where in many areas of the country outdoor gardening of flowers and vegetables is out of the question. Hydroponics gardening is a popular method used by indoor gardening enthusiasts.

Hydroponics is a form of soilless gardening; it instead uses a growing medium (or not, depending on the style of hydroponics you choose) in which the plant roots sit, and they are fed through the application of a nutrient solution. There are a few basic supplies you will need to get started with hydroponics gardening, including a lighting system including grow lights, a ballast and reflector. You might need growing medium, and you will definitely need nutrient. The amount and kind of nutrient and growing medium you need will depend on the specific plants you wish to grow. You can start plants yourself from seed, or you can purchase plants from nurseries and greenhouses. It is vital that you use the correct grow lights, because without proper lighting your plants will not grow and thrive. Indoor lighting of your plants affects plant growth in several different ways.

The visible spectrum is the part of the light spectrum that we can see. This spectrum is represented in wavelengths and is measured in the Kelvin scale. The spectrum ranges from purple and blue on one end, greens in the center, and orange and red on the other end. Daylight ranges from 5000 to 6500 K. What all this means to the indoor gardener is this: you are trying to replicate outdoor sunlight in an indoor setting. Plants grown indoors need 12-16 hours per day under appropriate lights in order to grow well. The kind of plants you are trying to grow will also play a part in the type of grow light you choose to use.

Grow lamps emitting light in the blue spectrum are best for use in plants in which you want to promote vegetative growth, such as seedling plants or lettuces, for example. If you are growing flowering plants, or fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes, you will instead want to use lighting that offers red/orange spectrum light. Light in this range is best for promoting flowering and fruiting in plants. Once you know what type of plants you wish to grow, then you can obtain the appropriate lighting for them to flourish.

There are many great HID lights, or high-intensity discharge lights, that work well in an indoor gardening application. They include HPS grow lights, or high pressure sodium lights, and metal halide grow lights. Because of the lower cost yet great light output, many indoor gardeners also like LED grow lights with light-emitting diodes as well.

Susan Slobac has a great deal of experience with indoor gardening. During this time she has researched a number of grow lights and their impact on plant growth. There are important differences between HPS grow lights, metal halide grow lights and LED grow lights.
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By John D Ward

If we could garden without any interference from the pests which attack plants, then indeed gardening would be a simple matter. But all the time we must watch out for these little foes little in size, but tremendous in the havoc they make.

As human illness may often be prevented by healthful conditions, so pests may be kept away by strict garden cleanliness. Heaps of waste are lodging places for the breeding of insects. I do not think a compost pile will do the harm, but unkempt, uncared-for spots seem to invite trouble.
There are certain helps to keeping pests down. The constant stirring up of the soil by earthworms is an aid in keeping the soil open to air and water. Many of our common birds feed upon insects. The sparrows, robins, chickadees, meadow larks and orioles are all examples of birds who help in this way. Some insects feed on other and harmful insects. Some kinds of ladybugs do this good deed. The ichneumon-fly helps too. And toads are wonders in the number of insects they can consume at one meal. The toad deserves very kind treatment from all of us.

Each gardener should try to make her or his garden into a place attractive to birds and toads. A good birdhouse, grain sprinkled about in early spring, a water-place, are invitations for birds to stay a while in your garden. If you wish toads, fix things up for them too. During a hot summer day a toad likes to rest in the shade. By night he is ready to go forth to eat but not to kill, since toads prefer live food. How can one "fix up" for toads? Well, one thing to do is to prepare a retreat, quiet, dark and damp. A few stones of some size underneath the shade of a shrub with perhaps a carpeting of damp leaves, would appear very fine to a toad.

There are two general classes of insects known by the way they do their work. One kind gnaws at the plant really taking pieces of it into its system. This kind of insect has a mouth fitted to do this work. Grasshoppers and caterpillars are of this sort. The other kind sucks the juices from a plant. This, in some ways, is the worst sort. Plant lice belong here, as do mosquitoes, which prey on us. All the scale insects fasten themselves on plants, and suck out the life of the plants.

Now can we fight these chaps? The gnawing fellows may be caught with poison sprayed upon plants, which they take into their bodies with the plant. The Bordeaux mixture which is a poison sprayed upon plants for this purpose.

In the other case the only thing is to attack the insect direct. So certain insecticides, as they are called, are sprayed on the plant to fall upon the insect. They do a deadly work of attacking, in one way or another, the body of the insect.

Sometimes we are much troubled with underground insects at work. You have seen a garden covered with ant hills. Here is a remedy, but one of which you must be careful.

This question is constantly being asked, 'How can I tell what insect is doing the destructive work?' Well, you can tell partly by the work done, and partly by seeing the insect itself. This latter thing is not always so easy to accomplish. I had cutworms one season and never saw one. I saw only the work done. If stalks of tender plants are cut clean off be pretty sure the cutworm is abroad.

What does he look like? Well, that is a hard question because his family is a large one.
Should you see sometime a grayish striped caterpillar, you may know it is a cutworm. But because of its habit of resting in the ground during the day and working by night, it is difficult to catch sight of one. The cutworm is around early in the season ready to cut the flower stalks of the hyacinths. When the peas come on a bit later, he is ready for them. A very good way to block him off is to put paper collars, or tin ones, about the plants. These collars should be about an inch away from the plant.

Of course, plant lice are more common. Those we see are often green in colour. But they may be red, yellow or brown. Lice are easy enough to find since they are always clinging to their host. As sucking insects they have to cling close to a plant for food, and one is pretty sure to find them. But the biting insects do their work, and then go hide. That makes them much more difficult to deal with.

Rose slugs do great damage to the rose bushes. They eat out the body of the leaves, so that just the veining is left. They are soft-bodied, green above and yellow below.
A beetle, the striped beetle, attacks young melons and squash leaves. It eats the leaf by riddling out holes in it. This beetle, as its name implies, is striped. The back is black with yellow stripes running lengthwise.

Then there are the slugs, which are garden pests. The slug will devour almost any garden plant, whether it be a flower or a vegetable. They lay lots of eggs in old rubbish heaps. Do you see the good of cleaning up rubbish? The slugs do more harm in the garden than almost any other single insect pest. You can discover them in the following way. There is a trick for bringing them to the surface of the ground in the day time. You see they rest during the day below ground. So just water the soil in which the slugs are supposed to be. How are you to know where they are? They are quite likely to hide near the plants they are feeding on. So water the ground with some nice clean lime water. This will disturb them, and up they'll poke to see what the matter is.

Beside these most common of pests, pests which attack many kinds of plants, there are special pests for special plants. Discouraging, is it not? Beans have pests of their own; so have potatoes and cabbages. In fact, the vegetable garden has many inhabitants. In the flower garden lice are very bothersome, the cutworm and the slug have a good time there, too, and ants often get very numerous as the season advances. But for real discouraging insect troubles the vegetable garden takes the prize. If we were going into fruit to any extent, perhaps the vegetable garden would have to resign in favour of the fruit garden.

A common pest in the vegetable garden is the tomato worm. This is a large yellowish or greenish striped worm. Its work is to eat into the young fruit.

A great, light green caterpillar is found on celery. This caterpillar may be told by the black bands, one on each ring or segment of its body.

The squash bug may be told by its brown body, which is long and slender, and by the disagreeable odour from it when killed. The potato bug is another fellow to look out for. It is a beetle with yellow and black stripes down its crusty back. The little green cabbage worm is a perfect nuisance. It is a small caterpillar and smaller than the tomato worm. These are perhaps the most common of garden pests by name.

John D. Ward is a Internet Marketer whose hobbies consist of photography, home theater, web-page design and bicycling. He can be reached at:
570-504-7361
www.InsaneWealthNow.com
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By Janet. W. Brown

More and more people are getting tense to the superbly cultivated beauty of bonsai plants. Some may think that they are half-starved small plants but they are actually warily cared-for facility of art. When caring for your bonsai plants, you should take addendum of some important tips.

Know Your Plant and Environment

Almost of all kinds of foliage can be made into a bonsai conceal, and the way you grow and mind your bonsai deposit is basically reliant on the species of hierarchy it is made from. Tropical trees, for example, do not fare fully as well in cold temperatures and may necessity unusual control.

It may be easier for you if you choice a ranking that grows well in the kind of temperature and environment in where you live. Like repeated-sized trees, bonsai plants will adjust to the changes of the term in your field. Take tone of the express hierarchy species that you tool. They may have even more exclusive desires according to their species.

Water Your Bonsai Properly

Bonsai plants do not have to be watered everyday but there are instances when they have to be. Watering frequency regularly depends on the kind of hierarchy, capture of soil and the spice. You may have to devise a watering arrange specifically for your bonsai.

As an universal declare, bonsai plants should neither be over watered nor under watered. Check the top of the soil with your fingers and nails. Moist top soil would mean it still contains some water. Dry soil is a positive billboard that you have to shock watering.

In some gear, bonsai owners water once a day in hot living and once every two living or so in cold living. This is not a hard and firmly directive still. Your workshop may have different water needs.

Grow Outside

If you live in cold regions and you have a tropical bonsai, you may have to devise some partly-enclosed protection for your bonsai deposit. However, generally, bonsai should be developed exterior. Despite their appearance, they are not ornamental interior house stuff. Bonsai plants neediness sufficient sunlight. Otherwise they will get sick and may even die.

If you have a bonsai plant that is native to your place, then it may do well unlikely in the frost flavor. Just reminisce to afford protection for it in especially harsh years.

These are only main beginner tips for would-be bonsai enthusiasts. If you are sincerely intent on mounting bonsai plants, you should fatally ponder studying more in gravity minutiae about bonsai custody. Important issues that need to be covered include pruning, wiring, re-potting, etc.

Whether you are a beginner or a tested bonsai lover, you will like to Complete Course in Care, Training & Maintenance Bonsai School point for precious information about bonsai plants and bonsai control.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?Authority=Janet._W._Brown

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• The Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree Is Great For Beginners

By Ray Cunningham

The art of bonsai raising embraces the upward of tiny plants, usually in shallow trays, or small pots.

By precision pruning and emergent them in small containers, it is feasible to maintain their small shapes.

It takes but a rapid time, to learn the principal art of pruning a bonsai ranking and give you great satisfaction, but perhaps a period to master this art.

Japanese, 'shin zen bi' combines the three military, beauty, honesty and essence, as part of the philosophy, behind their form of bonsai.

In their quest for perfection, the Japanese aim for an entirely innate, while miniaturized look to the ranking, or workshop. Their bonsai look as while they grew that way, without soul help. That is the aim.

The Chinese cultivate near the artistic and more imaginative with their bonsai, budding them into Chinese lettering and mythical lifeforms, as well as wildlife. , I much desire the more challenging, but physical miniaturized Japanese form, as it is more agreeable to my eye and senses.

The bonsai art form goes back a very long time. Starting in China, over 3,000 being ago, traders promptly found bonsai outlets and eager pupils remote of Asia, from as far away as the core east and even Africa. Medical practitioners in the Orient and even Egypt (where samples have even been found in their committal chambers, worn bonsai to make many medicaments).

There are many different forms and types of bonsai, especially trees. They change from arched trunks and trailing branches, akin to a hierarchy mature high on a lonely cliff, above a unsettled sea, to the more proper, straighter stem and wisely cut branches of a cosseted hierarchy, found in a peaceful garden.

Care of Your Bonsai Tree

Bonsai emergent is a brilliant way for you to to 'link' with features, on a spiritual reading, or cleanly like a worthwhile challenge and peaceful, pleasurable pursuit.

To help velvety your bonsai road a little, here are seven good tips for you.

• Watering.Very important, as too much, or too little can eradicate, or stunt your world. Don't anxiety, with a little thought, it is calm to get the weigh right and you will forever have a healthy ally growing on your view ledge, or shelve.

Two tranquil watering methods. Your identify, or a water gauge.

Your identify manner. Simply spike your feel into the bonsai soil. That's it! If dry, water until it starts to drain through the holes in the floor of the pot. Obviously, you would water less during the iciness and more in the summer.

The different fashion is to use a water gauge. They always come with bursting, but easy instructions, so you should have no problems getting the dampness rest right, every time.

• Feeding and fertilizing your ranking/factory.Generally best done in the bound and autumn (descend). Basically, it comprises adding, phosphoric acid, nitrogen and potash. Fertilize double monthly, in the spring and monthly in deceased autumn and coldness.


• Use the adjust container. Consider, the total and whittle and how your bonsai will look in it. Match up the mold and amount of the proposed tree and container, to enhance the complete outcome. For order, it would be a oversight to use a small, delicate container to believe a deep trunked and superior bonsai.


• Lighting desires of your bonsai lonely. Optimally, most bonsai penury a certain amount of sunlight. The exemption being if your tree has been heftily trimmed, or lately sealed in inventive soil. Then, ceiling the sunlight temporarily. You may even want to take it remote for its dose of vitamin D. If you live in a sunlight deprived district, my guidance would be to choose a bonsai which is not reliant upon instruct sunlight. Some penury very little indeed.


• Study up on the different recurring, nutritional requirements, for your bonsai.They grow at several different rates and their nutritional wishes adapt throughout the seasons. It's not complex. You just neediness to be awake, that's all.


• Plan the profile and type of your tree. Remember, you have a large say in the eventual outline and form your bonsai will take. Early forecast will collect later disappointment.
  
• Plan the placement of your little bonsai buddy. You will give time, darling and crack to your bonsai and this will be returned to you, many time over, by its shape, extent and beauty.
  
  Therefore, it will ought to be wholly sited in its own, elite notice someplace, to take lead of all your effort and to let its beauty shine onwards and brighten your home, or bureau.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?practiced=Ray_Cunningham

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