7/29/2008

By Alexander Vincent

Orchid Care: Fertilization and Pest Control.

Caring for orchids requires a bit of knowledge about the pests that tend to attack them, as well as proper fertilization techniques to help them grow. The stronger your plants, the better they will be able to resist common diseases and insects, and the best way to keep orchids healthy and strong is to fertilize them.

Orchid plant care is an area that has been heavily studied, particularly as many of the tropical species grow on tree branches, anchoring themselves to a host and appearing to thrive on thin air. While the more terrestrial orchid species tend to be easier to grow, they still require special care.

Pests That Attack Orchids:

Orchids have many natural enemies and anyone attempting orchid care at home will need to be aware of these. Some of the most common pests include slugs and snails, which are usually not difficult to get rid of. Others, however, are. Mealybugs, whitefly, and mites are also enemies of orchids.

There is also an aphid called the orchid aphid which attacks these plants. Aphids exist everywhere that orchids do, and because of this, they are a great threat to the flowering plants. Orchid care includes watching for these tiny pests, which are often not much bigger than a speck. These multiply rapidly, but like most pests, can be banished if caught early on when there are only a few. For this reason, it`s just good sense to check your plants for insects on a regular basis. For many interested in orchid care, biocontrol is the preferred method of keeping nasty insects at bay. Using friendly insects that eat the pests and don`t hurt the orchid can be a good way to go if you don`t want to risk chemical sprays. However, orchid plant care also requires proper feeding and fertilization to ensure the hardiness of the plant.

Orchid Care: Fertilization:

Most orchid care guides will tell you that the fertilization depends on the species of orchid, and this is true to an extent. While various species have their preferences, the majority do well with soluble fertilizers or plant food.

There are actually fertilizers specially formulated for growing orchids and these provide just the right balance of nutrients for the plants. If you choose to go with a more generic type of fertilizer with a 20-20-20 balance.

Orchids tend to grow in the wild where little nutrition is found. Understanding this, it is best to keep your orchid plant care efforts to a minimum. Many orchids are killed by giving them too much fertilizer or by over watering them. So, when feeding orchids, it is best to use about half the recommended dosage on the package and to use the fertilizer in place of water. Orchids only need to be fed once a month or so.

While orchids are not quite as delicate as many people assume, they do still require some special care. Making sure that you don`t over-fertilize the orchids and immediately dealing with any pests, before they get out of hand, is the best way to ensure top notch orchid plant care.

My website Orchid-Care-Expert.com helps people learn about orchid care
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alexander_Vincent

7/26/2008

By Gwen Stewart

There are many reasons for creating an indoor garden – significant among them is the need to clean the toxins from our homes and offices. As a consequence of the energy crisis in the 1970’s, today’s homes and offices are built to conserve energy and the outcome has been a lack of air exchange, with the resulting increase of indoor air pollution. The World Health Organization has stated, “there’s probably more damage to human health from indoor pollution than from outdoor pollution.” Symptoms associated with indoor pollution include allergies, asthma, eye, nose, and throat irritations, fatigue, headache, nervous system disorders, respiratory and sinus congestion. In today’s society more and more people exhibit these symptoms as a result of staying indoors the majority of the time.

One of the ways we can change this predicament is to become knowledgeable about and responsive to the environment that we live and breathe in. Foliage plants give us the opportunity to not only provide the calming influences of nature in our homes and workplaces, but also provide us with the oxygen we need to live. In a study conducted by N.A.S.A., researchers found that plants also clean the air inside our homes, buildings, and offices. The sources of chemical emissions that cause indoor air pollution include: acetone, alcohols; ammonia; benzene; chloroform; formaldehyde; and xylene.

These chemicals are found in cosmetics, nail polish remover, office correction fluid, pre-printed paper forms, adhesives, carpeting, caulking compounds, ceiling tiles, floor coverings, paints, particleboard, stains, varnishes, cleaning products, electrophotographic printers, microfiche developers, photocopiers, photography supplies, plastics, spot removers, solvents, tobacco smoke, wall coverings, carpet glue, draperies, fabrics, facial tissues, furniture made from preserved wood, gas stoves, grocery bags, paper towels, permanent-press clothing, plywood, upholstery, computer VDU screens, and community water supplies that add chloroform to chlorinated tap water.

Researchers have discovered the most effective plants are: Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) – removes chemical vapours; Arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum) – removes chemical vapours; Azalea (Rhododendron simsii hybrids) – removes chemical vapours; Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’) – the best fern for removing air pollutants; Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) – removes chemical vapours; Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera ‘Bridgesii’) – removes chemical vapours; Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) – removes chemical vapours; Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’) – best of the dracaenas for removing chemical toxins from the indoor environment; Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’) – especially effective for the removal of benzene; Dracaena (Dracaena marginata) – among the best plants for removing xylene; Dracaena (Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’) – especially effective at removing air toxins such as formaldehyde; English ivy (Hedera helix) – particularly effective at removing formaldehyde; Florist’s mum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) – one of the best flowering or seasonal plants for removing formaldehyde, benzene, and ammonia from the atmosphere; Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) – removes chemical vapours; Miniature date palm (Phoenix roebelinii) – one of the best palms for removing indoor air pollutants, especially effective for the removal of xylene; Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) – excels in the removal of alcohol, acetone, benzene, and formaldehyde; Red emerald philodendron (Philodendron erubescens) – one of the best philodendrons for removing indoor air pollutants; Snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) – good for removing chemical vapours; Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum ‘Vittatum’) – effective for removing indoor air pollutants as well as chemical vapours; and Wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens) – good for removing chemical vapours.

These are some of the plants known to contribute to healthy air quality in our homes, buildings, and offices. Some plants may be better than others are but all plants clean the air as they beautify our surroundings and add oxygen and humidity to the indoor environment. Horticulturist Ken Beattie suggests, “The next plant you buy may save your life.”

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and the booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Products. She owns the website Gwen’s Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the books and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit http://www.gwenshealinggarden.ca/
Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2005. All rights reserved.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gwen_Stewart

By Matthew Buquoi

There are a few tips and information about growing roses to be considered and a few requirements to optimize the growth of your roses. Generally speaking, however, roses are very versatile and can withstand harsh conditions and yet thrive. The basic fundamentals of getting the most out of your roses is to consider: the soil, the exposure, location, feeding, mulching, and pruning. If you put just a tad bit of attention to each of these facets and follow our tips for growing roses, then your roses will be a hit all though out the spring and summer without missing a beat.

Sun Requirements: Roses need at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Early morning sun is the best to protect against mildew. Although roses can go with less sun, they usually will not survive as long and will have fewer and smaller blooms.

Soil Requirements: Roses prefer loamy soil with a high-humus content. Working compost, peat moss, leaf mold and well-rotted manure into the soil will provide them with a rich environment. The soil can be fertilized additionally with bone meal and super-phosphate. Soil with a pH of 6.5 is best. PH meters are available to test your soils acidity level. Roses must have good drainage. Avoid planting in low areas where water collects. Roses do not do well in standing water and other overly saturated regions. If your soil is especially heavy, add sand for drainage.

Location and/or Containers: Plant roses at least 18-24" away from buildings. Roses must have air circulation surrounding them. This will minimize any mildew from forming. They should also not be planted too near larger plants. Larger plants can carry away nutrients, water, and food and keep the roses from extracting the most from the soil. For smaller roses, you can plant them in a container or a window box to show them off in different ways. Window boxes are a unique way to show off roses that can draw remarks from the neighbors.

Feeding: After roses are in full leaf, apply a balanced fertilizer. We recommend using a food specifically designed for roses. Fertilize again after the first bloom and once more 6 weeks before the first fall frost. These are the smallest feeding recommendation. A few more times during the growing season, however, usually helps the roses fill out more.

Mulching: Mulch provides many benefits to roses. Add a layer 2 to 3 inches thick to your rose bed to keep the moisture in and to help keep the weeds away. This tip for growing roses is surprisingly effective and you'll notice quite a difference when they begin to bloom.

Pruning: Pruning roses is vital in their continued success. The first step in pruning roses is to remove any dead, dying, damaged, diseased, weak or thin canes. Prune the branches back as far as the crown. Any shoot growing from below the graft is called a sucker and should be removed.

Pruning an already healthy rose is an important part of the process. Cutting a bloom not only allows you to enjoy it's beauty and scent, it helps shape the rose. Cut the flower stem no shorter than just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower you are removing. Also, you will need to leave at least two five-leaflet leaves above to point of the previous cut. It's best to cut a rose at a 45 degree angle roughly 1/4 of an inch from the outside bud. This seems complicated, but when you go to prune it will make perfect sense.

Roses are an exceptionally versatile, useful, and beautiful landscape plant. By following some basic tips and advice on growing roses and how to plant them, you will be on your way to years full of beautiful roses.

Matt Buquoi is the owner of Flower Window Boxes, a window box company that specializes in affordable no rot window boxes. His window boxes have been featured in many cottage and cape cod style homes showing off an array of beautiful flowers. These no rot window boxes can be made custom and fast anywhere in the country.
Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Buquoi

;;