6/07/2010

By Mike D.

My previous deed on looking after your Japanese maple bonsai focused totally on fertilizing, appropriate light requirements, water desires, and wetness requirements. This Part II will concentrate on pruning, re-potting, core pruning, and the frost caution of your Japanese maple.


Pruning


The Japanese maple bonsai is shaped, in part, as an effect of vigilant and planned pruning. You can reduce plants, twigs and roots with additional internode pinching. Fall is the perfect time of year to condense a Japanese maple due to the truth you'll find it easier to see the form of the ranking when there are no grass, but more significantly because the plants nosebleed seriously if pruned at the beginning of bounce. This flow will be minimized if the ranking's roots are pruned before you abridge it's kindling. All wounds resultant from pruning the ranking's kindling should be sealed with a wound dressing available at your adjacent plot warehouse or playgroup. If you are departing to abridge the ranking's roots and keep out some twig pruning the best time of year is to do both in the plunge.


Top-nick bonsai specimens story pleasant branches. The scheme to invent penalty branches is to stop long internodes. On a sphere of a ranking you will find there's universe between one brace of grass and the next couple of shrubbery. This is whats called the internode. To shorten the internode you'll want commonly to pinch back all the new expansion throughout the rising spell. You'll want to pinch back new shoots by pruning them back to just two sets of grass (internodes). When you pinch off new shoots it creates a shorter internode on the next zoom, and when the internodes are shorter the foliage is commonly denser.


Pruning the grass on your Japanese maple (removal of foliage during the growing season), also called defoliating, can be accepted out every other year at the beginning of summer to support lesser grass. Leaf pruning results in all the ranking's plants being impassive, but being very assiduous to allow the folio's stem linked to the part. By removing the foliage in this approach the hierarchy thinks it collapse and it will then fabricate a moment set of foliage that will be minor than the first set bent in the leap.


When to Re-Pot Your Japanese Maple


As a general judge most bonsai foliage ought to be re-sealed every two days. The helps in avoiding the roots from being overcrowded. The best time of year to re-pot your bonsai is in the plunge. The prime purpose that you want to re-pot every few years is to give yourself the opportunity to condense the roots of your hierarchy. The effect of core pruning is departing to be to stimulate vigorous new advance. It will be easier to condense the roots if you bathe them off with water once you have removed the stand from it's pot. Be clearly wisely to appraise and get rid of all obsolete or dented roots. The ideal potting mixture consists of loam, peat, and coarse sand in a 1:1:1 ratio. For all styles excepting a cascading smartness, you indigence to use a shallow pot. This will compel the roots to broaden out and will make a permanent origin search.


When, and How to Prune the Roots on Your Japanese Maple


The pruning of your Japanese maple's roots ought to always be united with aspect pruning so that the root method is not over-stressed seeking to stream water and nutrients to the plants branches and plants.


Root pruning should be approved out about every other year for babyish plants, and then every two to three years for elder plants.


Whenever you condense the trees roots it loses some of it's capability to ecstasy water up into the trees branches and foliage. For this logic fall is the best time to shorten the roots because the hierarchy is slowing it's processes of moving water and nutrients through the ranking besides. Late fall or early spiral would be the times that are the slightest stressful for the ranking.


As quickly as temperatures advantage leaving down the Japanese maple will begin to lock off its supply of water to it's grass. The roots of the Japanese maple will persist active long after all the leaves have dropped off, while the temperature corpse above 55 degrees. The roots will still have an opportunity for new progress if you have pruned them and the temperature stays above 55 degrees.


Caring for Your Japanese Maple During the Winter


The roots of your Japanese maple continue to be absorbing water and nutrients even while the ending leaves fall so you'll want to give it a good watering before the temperature dip. Relocate your hierarchy to a quarter where it's vacant to be cozy from fanatical frost winds. Winter winds can injure your Japanese maple if left exposed. The reason is the wind will hurriedly dry out the soil in the bonsai pot. Your Japanese maple bonsai doesn't penury to be watered on a recurrent origin during the coldness, but that doesn't mean you don't ought to prove on it occasionally. Give it a cocktail of water when it looks to be drying out, typically once a week will do. You should also make assured that your ranking's roots don't freeze during the winter. You can shield the roots from freezing by insertion baggy straw over the bonsai pot. This can also safeguard it from frost.


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